I had my signature picture taken with Taj Mahal during my first visit in India in 2011. A year after I found myself at Delhi Indira Ghandi airport while on my way to Nepalese Himalayas with India's most loved low-cost airlines Spice Jet.
Trekking experience in Nepal made me and my brother Tymek travel to Indian Himalayas in March and April 2013. Nanda Devi trek in Uttarakhand was my brother's choice. He did most of the planning. I thought that Nanda Devi would be similar to Annapurna trek in Nepal. While conquering Anapurna Circuit we enjoyed numerous stopovers at teahouses, finding easily accommodation and sharing experience in Himalayas with other foreign tourists.
Later I found, the trek we were going to do was quite a different trek, an expedition that didn't go entirely the way I expected.
This page is dedicated to a 14 day Himalaya trip in India, which my brother and I did in March 2013. You will follow our trip day by day with each chapter representing a single day of travelling or trekking.
Trekking experience in Nepal made me and my brother Tymek travel to Indian Himalayas in March and April 2013. Nanda Devi trek in Uttarakhand was my brother's choice. He did most of the planning. I thought that Nanda Devi would be similar to Annapurna trek in Nepal. While conquering Anapurna Circuit we enjoyed numerous stopovers at teahouses, finding easily accommodation and sharing experience in Himalayas with other foreign tourists.
Later I found, the trek we were going to do was quite a different trek, an expedition that didn't go entirely the way I expected.
This page is dedicated to a 14 day Himalaya trip in India, which my brother and I did in March 2013. You will follow our trip day by day with each chapter representing a single day of travelling or trekking.
DAY 1: FROM DELHI TO KATHGODAM
We arrived to Delhi at 2am. These were early hours in the morning when most European flights arrived at Delhi airport. Our British Airways jumbo parked between Air France 777 and KLM Asia 747. Subsequently, Lufthansa landed from Frankfurt and Aeroflot from Moscow. Few Europeans wondered around in the arrival hall waiting for the sunrise before stepping into a buzzy city. We were one of them and waited until around 4.30am. There was a shop with beer so we could entertain ourselves until then. Once we walked out the terminal there was no way back. At Delhi airport there is very strict security and they don't let you go back to the arrivals. We booked a taxi from the outside for 600 rupees (around 8 pounds) to Anand Vihar which is the newest railway station in Delhi located on the other side of the city.
We were lucky to have our train tickets booked in advance thanks to my friend Dominika and Deepak. I confirmed via various websites that unless I'm a resident I wouldn't be able book tickets online. Everywhere I read I found that trains in India are filled up very quickly and it is very difficult to get the tickets at a counter.
We were lucky to have our train tickets booked in advance thanks to my friend Dominika and Deepak. I confirmed via various websites that unless I'm a resident I wouldn't be able book tickets online. Everywhere I read I found that trains in India are filled up very quickly and it is very difficult to get the tickets at a counter.
Shatabdi Express 12040 at Kathgodam
We travelled to Kathgodam on Shatabdi Express. This 270km journey lasted for 5h40. Kathgodam is located in Southern Uttarakhand. It is a starting point for Nanda Devi trek in Himalays because this is furthest people can get by train. Despite Kathgodam being quite a buzzy city, when we arrived we did not see any other tourists with backpacks which was what I expected to see. Certainly, Kathgodam was not a cool and colorful Thamel of Kathmandu where I had my first 'getting ready' for trekking experience same time last year.
It was about 1pm and very hot. First thing we had to do was to find a bank where we could exchange our money. We purposely took cash in pounds so we did not have to use any cards. We thought that was the best thing to do after a bad experience in Nepal last year when none of the ATMs machines wanted to withdraw money. However, finding a bank where we could buy rupees was a difficult task. We walked along Kathgodam's main road, visited a number of banks and other institutions and even got a ride in a tuk-tuk to a recommended establishment but all with no much luck. Until we found one bank where we were told, we could exchange our money which was away from the main road but close enough to the station.
It was about 1pm and very hot. First thing we had to do was to find a bank where we could exchange our money. We purposely took cash in pounds so we did not have to use any cards. We thought that was the best thing to do after a bad experience in Nepal last year when none of the ATMs machines wanted to withdraw money. However, finding a bank where we could buy rupees was a difficult task. We walked along Kathgodam's main road, visited a number of banks and other institutions and even got a ride in a tuk-tuk to a recommended establishment but all with no much luck. Until we found one bank where we were told, we could exchange our money which was away from the main road but close enough to the station.
We were happy and ready to leave Kathgodam. While looking for a place where we could catch a bus to our next destination, we had a short stop for sweet tea at one of on-street chai services. A young policeman who was also drinking tea while exchanging a few words with us indicated which bus to take to get to Almora, our next destination.
Almora is a beautifully located city in the middle of mountains about 1600 metres above sea level. Lonely Planet dedicates a few paragraphs to Almora: A cool climate and mountain views are attractions, but don't be put off by the ugly, shambolic main street when you are first deposited at the bus stand. This exactly reflected my experience when Tymek and I arrived at 6 in the afternoon, completely knackered from our air and train journeys.
With an exception of few German or Austrian female tourists who dined at our hotel, similarly to Kathgodam we have not seen any trekkers. I was a little bit nervous and disappointed that there was no one else who came here to do same trek.
With an exception of few German or Austrian female tourists who dined at our hotel, similarly to Kathgodam we have not seen any trekkers. I was a little bit nervous and disappointed that there was no one else who came here to do same trek.
DAY 2: HEADING TO MUNSIYARI
We had a long way to go before we could begin any walking. After spending a night in Hotel Shikhar in the centre of Almora we arrived back at the bus station. We were hoping to catch a bus to Munsiyari, which was our final point before the trekking we could start trekking. There were a lot of people going different directions. Unaware of the journey length between Almora and Munsiyari, we kept asking around for direct buses.
Finally, we accepted there were no directed buses. Instead, we had to change either at Pithoragarh or Thal. But buses heading to either of these destination were very full of passengers with no space for two tall guys and their backpacks. We had to give up on public transport options. I insisted on getting a taxi. The only choice was to rent a private jeep. This cost us 4,000 rupees (about 50 pounds) after a lengthy negotiation. It was a nine-hour journey along continuously rising and curved road.
Finally, we accepted there were no directed buses. Instead, we had to change either at Pithoragarh or Thal. But buses heading to either of these destination were very full of passengers with no space for two tall guys and their backpacks. We had to give up on public transport options. I insisted on getting a taxi. The only choice was to rent a private jeep. This cost us 4,000 rupees (about 50 pounds) after a lengthy negotiation. It was a nine-hour journey along continuously rising and curved road.
Our driver, Pushkar was very confident on the road. It was great to have a jeep just to ourselves. But it was a very long journey and even the Indian music playing our loudly like a mantra from Pushkar's smart phone did not keep us awake all the time. We arrived in Munsyari after dusk. The town is located 2300m above sea level and this is where Nanda Devi trek starts. We stayed in Pandey Lodge, probably the best hotel in town.
DAY 3: NANDA DEVI TREK
It appeared we were the first tourists doing the Nanda Devi trek that year. It was the end of March but the season in reality does not start till mid April. While having breakfast at Mr Pandey's lodge we were told the trek was officially closed. It was surprise to us because at the same time last year we were doing Annapurna trek in Nepal with no problems. We went to the police station on the other side of Munsiyari to check if we could get permissions but there was no one to grant us these.
We were very keen to try one more time, particularly my brother who decided to go towards the first checkpoint on Nanda Devi trek in Lilam. We were told that there was another police station there. We wanted to check if they could let us go beyond Lilam. We also discussed an alternative plan, Panchachuli Base Camp on the other side of Himalayas where permits were not required.
We were very keen to try one more time, particularly my brother who decided to go towards the first checkpoint on Nanda Devi trek in Lilam. We were told that there was another police station there. We wanted to check if they could let us go beyond Lilam. We also discussed an alternative plan, Panchachuli Base Camp on the other side of Himalayas where permits were not required.
We started at 11am and followed a curved road. For the first part of our walk, we were descending. It was slow but very pleasant walk. There were few cars passing by. Within the first hour of walking, we were met by joyful group of women who were coming back from Holi celebration, a Hindu festival celebrated at beginning of spring to commemorate new season and good harvests.
In about two hours since leaving Munsiyari we reached the junction where the road divided. To the right, the route continued to Madkot where all of the very few cars passing by followed. We kept on going towards Lilam, to the left, occasionally using shortcuts. One of such shortcuts was a monkey jungle. Unfortunately, I did not manage to take any photos. Monkeys were jumping between trees and were very fast. At the end of this descend we reached a scenic bridge.
After crossing the bridge, the route changed into a rocky trek. We followed narrow paths made of luminescent stones of Himalayas. It was great as we were experiencing some steep approaches. We were eager to start a mountain walking. At about 4pm we reached Lilam where we were met by one of the station police workers. We were seated and asked to wait while they were trying to get in touch with their head base. They were not very happy. Eventually, we were told that without permits we could not continue and had to go back.
It was started getting dark and we asked permission to stay under our tent near by, for which they were not very keen. Finally, with their permission we put our tent down nearby and waited until the next day before heading back. It was our first night under the tent during this trip. It was a pretty comfortable night. We made good friends with police in the morning. They even offered us breakfast.
It was started getting dark and we asked permission to stay under our tent near by, for which they were not very keen. Finally, with their permission we put our tent down nearby and waited until the next day before heading back. It was our first night under the tent during this trip. It was a pretty comfortable night. We made good friends with police in the morning. They even offered us breakfast.
DAY 4 : LILAM TO MADKOT
Next morning, we walked back. Instead of going all the way to Munsiyari, we decided upon my brother's recommendation to carry on to the bridge and the monkey jungle and head towards Madkot. From that point, we had to march about 15km to Madkot, mostly along a quiet road. We were going to accomplish our Plan B: Panchachuli Base Camp.
It was a very sunny day and we had no reason to rush anywhere. We enjoyed this slow trek. We were very uncertain about our Panchachuli Base Camp and how we were going to get there. We were discussing it during our walk.
After a whole day of walking, we finally spotted Madkot, a village on top of impressive hill. A heavy metal bridge seemed to be an entrance to the village. We were quickly greeted by very friendly residents.
To our surprise, there was a huge hotel but we were the only visitors. It was not the cleanest hotel. However, the atmosphere in the town was great. All residents celebrated Holi festival. Everyone was very happy and approachable. We were also happy when discovered we were able to buy a beer (8 per cent of alcohol though). We bought food in village restaurant where we were hosted by a very nice man and his wis family. Everyone was out till late and even after dark we stayed on talking to villagers and their children. But the 8 per cent beer showed its signs. It was time to go to bed. Tomorrow we were off to Himalayas proper trek to a Base Camp where we did not quite know the route yet.
It was a very sunny day and we had no reason to rush anywhere. We enjoyed this slow trek. We were very uncertain about our Panchachuli Base Camp and how we were going to get there. We were discussing it during our walk.
After a whole day of walking, we finally spotted Madkot, a village on top of impressive hill. A heavy metal bridge seemed to be an entrance to the village. We were quickly greeted by very friendly residents.
To our surprise, there was a huge hotel but we were the only visitors. It was not the cleanest hotel. However, the atmosphere in the town was great. All residents celebrated Holi festival. Everyone was very happy and approachable. We were also happy when discovered we were able to buy a beer (8 per cent of alcohol though). We bought food in village restaurant where we were hosted by a very nice man and his wis family. Everyone was out till late and even after dark we stayed on talking to villagers and their children. But the 8 per cent beer showed its signs. It was time to go to bed. Tomorrow we were off to Himalayas proper trek to a Base Camp where we did not quite know the route yet.
Day 5: madkot, ringu, chulkot and ...
We left Madkot for our ambitious Base Camp trek. By then it was clear we would not meet any other tourists on our way. We also did not expect more hotels or any kind of accommodation was going to rely on our little tent.
The plan for that day was to reach a village called Chulkot and then follow the route up through remaining villages.
We left Madkot witnessed by many residents, shop owners and farmers who were watching us with admiration. We walked up through loose forest and then arrived at some fields. It was continuously steep walk. We conquered about 700 metres vertically nonstop. The afternoon was very hot reaching 30 degrees or more. I was exhausted pretty quickly.
The plan for that day was to reach a village called Chulkot and then follow the route up through remaining villages.
We left Madkot witnessed by many residents, shop owners and farmers who were watching us with admiration. We walked up through loose forest and then arrived at some fields. It was continuously steep walk. We conquered about 700 metres vertically nonstop. The afternoon was very hot reaching 30 degrees or more. I was exhausted pretty quickly.
After about 3 hours of mounting we got to green skillfully cultivated fields. There was a stone made walkway, which led us throughout a beautiful village. All houses were decorated with colorful ornaments and all looked very well maintained. We walked through the whole hilly village climbing to the very last house where we were greeted by a family of former army worker, Mr Bhinsingh Ranged. He told us we were in Ringu, which slightly confused us because according to our map this should have been Chulkot.
He invited us to sit in the front of his house and offered us water and even food. We only took water, as had no feel hunger at all. This was a very nice afternoon. We held a few conversations with his grand children who spoke some basic English. They all were very nice to us. They refused money when we wanted to show our gratitude. This made us understand that in this part of the world money is not an object. This was so different from the lower parts.
Mr Bhinsingh Ranged advised us to skip Chulkot. We were not sure about that. For no other reason but to diversify our journey we decided head for Chulkot first, from where we were going straight up towards Panchachuli Base Camp.
He invited us to sit in the front of his house and offered us water and even food. We only took water, as had no feel hunger at all. This was a very nice afternoon. We held a few conversations with his grand children who spoke some basic English. They all were very nice to us. They refused money when we wanted to show our gratitude. This made us understand that in this part of the world money is not an object. This was so different from the lower parts.
Mr Bhinsingh Ranged advised us to skip Chulkot. We were not sure about that. For no other reason but to diversify our journey we decided head for Chulkot first, from where we were going straight up towards Panchachuli Base Camp.
Within one hour of walking surrounded by impressive views we arrived to Chulkot. The village was bigger than Ringu. We had some difficulties with passing through the village because we found very unclear where was a public path and private land. Nevertheles, we were greeted with same enthusiasm by the locals and treated with sweet tea. They also did not accept any money. After a brief encounter with residents of Chulkot we set off towards Panchachuli Base Camp.
We crossed one more village, which might have been Maninguir or Bakhuna as per out basic trekking. The village was much less clean than Ringu or even Chulkot. There was a lot of waste and cow poo too. We saw a few people around but none of them attempted to notice or stop us. There was a group of old men playing cards at a leisurely pace. Each card held in these man hands had four or five flies sticked on.
We wanted to fill our water bottles with no much luck. The youngest representative of the village in his early twenties did not want us to stop there but explained there will be a spring ahead of us. So, we continued our journey with no interruption. The only thing we were not entirely comfortable with was that we did know whether we were going in a right direction.
We crossed one more village, which might have been Maninguir or Bakhuna as per out basic trekking. The village was much less clean than Ringu or even Chulkot. There was a lot of waste and cow poo too. We saw a few people around but none of them attempted to notice or stop us. There was a group of old men playing cards at a leisurely pace. Each card held in these man hands had four or five flies sticked on.
We wanted to fill our water bottles with no much luck. The youngest representative of the village in his early twenties did not want us to stop there but explained there will be a spring ahead of us. So, we continued our journey with no interruption. The only thing we were not entirely comfortable with was that we did know whether we were going in a right direction.
We stopped at the spring, which indeed showed up within minutes after we left the village. Later we attempted to climb a steep summit. Somehow, we lost a footpath and were on our knees conquering the mountain covered by coniferous plants. We realised we were on a wrong way when a local shepherd who might have been sent by the village voluntarily gave us a shout. He then navigated us to a correct path through this bushy mountain. Although he is was in his 60s, but was much quicker than us while moving up to the top. He left us as soon as we were soon and could navigate ourselves.
On the top of the mountain, we were back on track. After not a long walk we were joined by two shepherds who were collecting wood in preparation for the night as it was getting dark. After a quick encounter we continues for few more metres and found our own nest where we were going to spend our night.
There was no time to waste. We had to put the tent down before it got completely dark. I collected the wood for our fireplace while Tymek kindle a fire. In our metal bowls, we cooked Chinese noodles and tea using in our water carried in plastic bottles.
It was our second night under the tent but much more strange that the one in Lilam where we stayed at the checkpoint. This was a remote place. An it was just two of us.
On the top of the mountain, we were back on track. After not a long walk we were joined by two shepherds who were collecting wood in preparation for the night as it was getting dark. After a quick encounter we continues for few more metres and found our own nest where we were going to spend our night.
There was no time to waste. We had to put the tent down before it got completely dark. I collected the wood for our fireplace while Tymek kindle a fire. In our metal bowls, we cooked Chinese noodles and tea using in our water carried in plastic bottles.
It was our second night under the tent but much more strange that the one in Lilam where we stayed at the checkpoint. This was a remote place. An it was just two of us.
dAY 6: THROUGH SHEPHERD'S BUSH, WATER SPRINGS AND BAMBOO BRIDGE
My brother was first to get up. I was lazy and wished to stay longer in the tent that morning. I was a little bit anxious because we clearly did not know what is ahead of us, where is the next water spring or will there be other human beings...
My brother disciplined me. I helped pack our tent and organised my bag. With no time to waste, we marched further up through old woods. To my surprise within an hour of walking, we found a water stream where we washed our faces and filled plastic bottles with fresh spring water. Ok, so at the end of the day things were not too bad...there was water.
An hour later, we arrived at a clearing, which appeared to be a shepherd's settlement, covered with straw. Apart from a black dog watching this settlement there was no one. We managed to walk by silently without disturbing the dog. The next milestone was a wooden bridge surrounded by already familiar to us red flower plant.
My brother disciplined me. I helped pack our tent and organised my bag. With no time to waste, we marched further up through old woods. To my surprise within an hour of walking, we found a water stream where we washed our faces and filled plastic bottles with fresh spring water. Ok, so at the end of the day things were not too bad...there was water.
An hour later, we arrived at a clearing, which appeared to be a shepherd's settlement, covered with straw. Apart from a black dog watching this settlement there was no one. We managed to walk by silently without disturbing the dog. The next milestone was a wooden bridge surrounded by already familiar to us red flower plant.
Since crossing the bridge, things have become trickier. First of all, while I was walking behind my brother by some 30 metres I got suddenly scared by a purring noise coming out from underneath stones. The worrisome sound could have been of a cat, monkey or even panda.
Obviously, that experience made me walk faster and closer to my brother. Meanwhile, the path we followed became less clear. Without noticing, we lost our way. We ended up climbing steep rocks, which were too scary to be looking down. Climbing through rocks, holding on to mountain plants, with 8 kg on my back, was not what I call a trekking. I raised concerns and stopped going any further. It took us a good half an hour to realise where the path was. Eventually, we went back safely a few metres down where we had lost our way. It was a hill with a sole tree, which I quickly recognised. From there we continued using what it seemed a correct trail.
Obviously, that experience made me walk faster and closer to my brother. Meanwhile, the path we followed became less clear. Without noticing, we lost our way. We ended up climbing steep rocks, which were too scary to be looking down. Climbing through rocks, holding on to mountain plants, with 8 kg on my back, was not what I call a trekking. I raised concerns and stopped going any further. It took us a good half an hour to realise where the path was. Eventually, we went back safely a few metres down where we had lost our way. It was a hill with a sole tree, which I quickly recognised. From there we continued using what it seemed a correct trail.
It was a very narrow path. I had to lean against rocky wall and use mountain plants and my wooden stick to support myself. This trek was a long and difficult.
After more than a couple of hours of this struggle, we arrived at the top of a small canyon. To reach the river that was cutting through our path we had to descend through bamboo trees and mud. On a scale from 1 to 10 where 10 is most difficult, this task I could classify at 8.
Once landed at the edge of the river it was possible to see that ahead of us was a 6 metres wide river crossing. To traverse the river we had to use a bamboo made bridge supported by wet stones. Tymek quickly realised that it was impossible to walk on the bridge.
After more than a couple of hours of this struggle, we arrived at the top of a small canyon. To reach the river that was cutting through our path we had to descend through bamboo trees and mud. On a scale from 1 to 10 where 10 is most difficult, this task I could classify at 8.
Once landed at the edge of the river it was possible to see that ahead of us was a 6 metres wide river crossing. To traverse the river we had to use a bamboo made bridge supported by wet stones. Tymek quickly realised that it was impossible to walk on the bridge.
My brother's idea was to take off our boots and trousers and walk along the bridge holding on to bamboo branches. It was a two-stage passage. First, we had to reach the stone in the middle of the river where we could rest and then get to the other side of the river.
It was pretty frightening because the bamboo was very slippery and water stream really strong. On one side we needed to cross water quickly with a minimum hesitation. Equally, this task required from us a tremendous caution to make sure we are holding on to bamboo branches firmly. Otherwise we could be swept away. 9 out of 10.
What a relief was to be on the other side! After a little rest, we put our clothes back and started to march brushing away bamboo trees. It was a very dense jungle, which led us to a steep hill within minutes.
It was pretty frightening because the bamboo was very slippery and water stream really strong. On one side we needed to cross water quickly with a minimum hesitation. Equally, this task required from us a tremendous caution to make sure we are holding on to bamboo branches firmly. Otherwise we could be swept away. 9 out of 10.
What a relief was to be on the other side! After a little rest, we put our clothes back and started to march brushing away bamboo trees. It was a very dense jungle, which led us to a steep hill within minutes.
At first, the hill did not look too difficult. However, there was no a path or suggested way we could take. We had to work out our way up somehow if we wanted to reach the top of the hill. It was about 15 metres high, pretty steep but with soft earth made of mud and little stones.
I had to give a full concentration to this uneasy task. I had to hold tree branches leaning to the earth in standing position without much room for any manoeuvre. I decided not to follow my brother who headed in a different direction. Instead, I was stuck in between a tree branch and earth and could not climb any higher. Neither come back down. I got really stressed and did not know what to do for a while. My brother was too far to come and rescue me and I knew that if I start to panic I would not be able to move up at all.
I calmed down myself first, then released my rucksack and rolled it off. I watched my bag spinning for 10 metres down.
Finally, I slid down on my bum painfully, picked up my backpack which luckily did not spin all the way to the river and climbed my way back to where more or less my brothers was. 10 out of 10.
We managed to scramble up and finally reached the top of the hill. It was a great relief to see flat ground, perfect for our tent. The space was more like a flat clearing or grassland unlike our previous night spot where we were surrounded by rocks and a tree from one side. Here we could enjoy beautiful sky darkening as the night progressed. We cooked Chinese noodles and a lot of tea with water we gained in the river. Sky was full of moving clouds. The whole day proved to me as a constant challange. As soon I overcome one barrier, whether it was physical or mental there was another obstacle waiting for us. Owned to this adventured, I slept very well that night ..
I had to give a full concentration to this uneasy task. I had to hold tree branches leaning to the earth in standing position without much room for any manoeuvre. I decided not to follow my brother who headed in a different direction. Instead, I was stuck in between a tree branch and earth and could not climb any higher. Neither come back down. I got really stressed and did not know what to do for a while. My brother was too far to come and rescue me and I knew that if I start to panic I would not be able to move up at all.
I calmed down myself first, then released my rucksack and rolled it off. I watched my bag spinning for 10 metres down.
Finally, I slid down on my bum painfully, picked up my backpack which luckily did not spin all the way to the river and climbed my way back to where more or less my brothers was. 10 out of 10.
We managed to scramble up and finally reached the top of the hill. It was a great relief to see flat ground, perfect for our tent. The space was more like a flat clearing or grassland unlike our previous night spot where we were surrounded by rocks and a tree from one side. Here we could enjoy beautiful sky darkening as the night progressed. We cooked Chinese noodles and a lot of tea with water we gained in the river. Sky was full of moving clouds. The whole day proved to me as a constant challange. As soon I overcome one barrier, whether it was physical or mental there was another obstacle waiting for us. Owned to this adventured, I slept very well that night ..
DAY 7: LONELY in Himalayas
I was woken up by a pair of large crows making noise with our metal dishes left outside of tent. After cleaning up and folding the tent up, we had a brief attempt to further climb in a direction of Panchachuli. However, the path we were following for last two days was even less clear than the day before. I wanted to return. My brother agreed. We were going back!
Firstly, we had to descent to the river valley. Then we had to find back bamboo bushes to get to the bank of the river.
We sat and rested watching a strong stream of the river. My brother was the first to go through this river again. I followed him. Crossing the river was even more difficult and the day before.
Firstly, we had to descent to the river valley. Then we had to find back bamboo bushes to get to the bank of the river.
We sat and rested watching a strong stream of the river. My brother was the first to go through this river again. I followed him. Crossing the river was even more difficult and the day before.
Narrow path
The return journey was hard. We had a long walk through rocky cliffs. We followed the same route that we had come from just a day before but I forgot how difficult this part of the trek was. It felt endless. As soon as I managed to cross one rocky path I had to overcome another obstacle holding to the mountain wall covered in shrubs. It was not climbing, not trekking. Our path was very narrow. A very steep decline was spreading underneath our path. Sometimes our way was barricaded by large pieces of rock. I had to have my full concentration on every step so I don't fall off the cliff.
It was not climbing, not trekking. I had to use any visible footholds and holding to the surface by either hand or foot. Throughout the day I learn how to use hand and foot sequence, with at least three our of four limbs attached to the ground or rock.
After three good hours of walking like that, we arrived at a bridge hanging over the rocks. There was no way this bridge could be safe. My brother chose to walk around the bridge instead of walking on it. I guess this bridge has never been used any any tourist.
In addition, it started to get darker. Clouds became bigger and thicker. This was an indication of changing weather. Luckily the rain we met on our was not very strong but it made me feel nervous. I just could not be sure whether these clouds could get worse.
It was not climbing, not trekking. I had to use any visible footholds and holding to the surface by either hand or foot. Throughout the day I learn how to use hand and foot sequence, with at least three our of four limbs attached to the ground or rock.
After three good hours of walking like that, we arrived at a bridge hanging over the rocks. There was no way this bridge could be safe. My brother chose to walk around the bridge instead of walking on it. I guess this bridge has never been used any any tourist.
In addition, it started to get darker. Clouds became bigger and thicker. This was an indication of changing weather. Luckily the rain we met on our was not very strong but it made me feel nervous. I just could not be sure whether these clouds could get worse.
Our trek continued through the shepherd settlement. Although we did not see any shepherds, their two large black dogs were there. I didn't like these dogs, neither they liked us. We were their intruders. Both dogs from two different sides started to bark at us. Tymek lifted a small rock from the ground and told me to hold on to my wooden stick firmly to scare them off. I accumulated all my confidence I had inside myself and walked by barking dogs while indicating to the dogs my stick was ready to fight. This technique worked well. We managed pass through the settlement all in pieces.
We finally reached a known to us spring, just an hour away from the spot where we had stayed two nights ago. It was happy moment to be back to place we have known.
This was an easy and flat walk through the old forest. There were huge threes with extensive roots like the ones in Lord of the Rings. Although, this scenery was frightening a little we enjoyed that walk. We were relaxed. We even started to collect wood for making our supper. It was a bout 4 pm and it was getting dark slowly. At one point, something did not look the same. We realised we lost our way. While walking through the old woods, we did not notice we were going the wrong way. Our relaxed senses betrayed us. We had no idea where to go.
We finally reached a known to us spring, just an hour away from the spot where we had stayed two nights ago. It was happy moment to be back to place we have known.
This was an easy and flat walk through the old forest. There were huge threes with extensive roots like the ones in Lord of the Rings. Although, this scenery was frightening a little we enjoyed that walk. We were relaxed. We even started to collect wood for making our supper. It was a bout 4 pm and it was getting dark slowly. At one point, something did not look the same. We realised we lost our way. While walking through the old woods, we did not notice we were going the wrong way. Our relaxed senses betrayed us. We had no idea where to go.
Going upwards felt like a right direction. We had to start to climb the hill. My nails were full of earth from the grip. I had to push away oppressive branches of old trees, which were barricading my way. We will find the way only if I stay focus and consistently follow my brother whose intuition in that moment was all I trusted.
Indeed, he managed to lead us into the right direction. We found our path. It appeared by now, we must have lost our way by being too relaxed. Without us noticing, we had been descending for some time. Hence, we had to climb back to reach the path we were supposed to follow. Here is a lesson I learnt: Never loose up at the end of your trek even if all looks very familiar to you.
After a few more minutes, we were back at our lodgings. That was a place we well knew from two days ago. We had had to drop all the wood collected earlier on while finding our way. After finally detaching my rucksack from my back, and I walked around to look for suitable wood while my brother put the tent up and started to prepare the fire. Another lonely night in Himalayas was about to start again.
Indeed, he managed to lead us into the right direction. We found our path. It appeared by now, we must have lost our way by being too relaxed. Without us noticing, we had been descending for some time. Hence, we had to climb back to reach the path we were supposed to follow. Here is a lesson I learnt: Never loose up at the end of your trek even if all looks very familiar to you.
After a few more minutes, we were back at our lodgings. That was a place we well knew from two days ago. We had had to drop all the wood collected earlier on while finding our way. After finally detaching my rucksack from my back, and I walked around to look for suitable wood while my brother put the tent up and started to prepare the fire. Another lonely night in Himalayas was about to start again.
day 8: return to madkot
I started the day from a Sun Salutation which appeared to be very popular among noise crows flying between the mountains. There was no better way to say hello to these beautiful surroundings. My brother got up after me. With no breakfast as always we cleaned up the area, folded back the tent, and packed up our bags. Then we started our descending back to Madkot.
We did not have to wait a lot until we saw first villages from a distance. We were also greeted the wives and daughters of shepherds who were walking up with food. This was our first encounter with local people for last three days.
It was hot but the walk was nice and easy considering what we had experienced earlier. While, descending we stopped to drink water in a spring and continued until we reached Ringu. This time we followed stone made trail and avoided going through Chulkot.
In Ringu, I wanted to visit Mr Bhinsingh Ranged who had treated us with water and tea previously. It was about 1 pm and all families seem to be in the upper parts of Himalayas working in the fields. After a few brief conversations with other locals who did not speak any English, I decided to leave a note for Mr Ranged and give a few Kit Kat chocolate bars we had left from our trip.
When we were at the end of the village we noticed that a kid was following us all the way through from the top who shyly approached asked for some chocolates. He might have seen me giving the chocolate to the neighbour. I shared with him another chocolate bar that I had in my bag. From a perspective, I think now, it might not have been a great of me to give away these chocolates on a first place, especially for a sake of small children who might start to associate foreigners with giving away free gifts.
It took us two more hours of a pleasurable trek to reach Madkot. We went back to the same hotel and stayed in the same room. We even had same sheets and pillows that nobody had cleaned after our last stay. We bought the last two bottles of the beer left in the village. The Happy Holi was over. The local residents were not as open and welcoming as before. Nevertheless, we managed to order for ourselves a huge dal bhat after 2 days of not having a proper dish.
It was hot but the walk was nice and easy considering what we had experienced earlier. While, descending we stopped to drink water in a spring and continued until we reached Ringu. This time we followed stone made trail and avoided going through Chulkot.
In Ringu, I wanted to visit Mr Bhinsingh Ranged who had treated us with water and tea previously. It was about 1 pm and all families seem to be in the upper parts of Himalayas working in the fields. After a few brief conversations with other locals who did not speak any English, I decided to leave a note for Mr Ranged and give a few Kit Kat chocolate bars we had left from our trip.
When we were at the end of the village we noticed that a kid was following us all the way through from the top who shyly approached asked for some chocolates. He might have seen me giving the chocolate to the neighbour. I shared with him another chocolate bar that I had in my bag. From a perspective, I think now, it might not have been a great of me to give away these chocolates on a first place, especially for a sake of small children who might start to associate foreigners with giving away free gifts.
It took us two more hours of a pleasurable trek to reach Madkot. We went back to the same hotel and stayed in the same room. We even had same sheets and pillows that nobody had cleaned after our last stay. We bought the last two bottles of the beer left in the village. The Happy Holi was over. The local residents were not as open and welcoming as before. Nevertheless, we managed to order for ourselves a huge dal bhat after 2 days of not having a proper dish.
Day 9: A Twenty kilometre trek
The plan for that day was to go back to Munsiyari. Instead of walking through the hills we decided to choose a different route and walk along the river. This involved stepping on large stones to cross over the water. We had to jump from one stone onto the other, which required some technique. With 8 kilograms on my back, this proved to be an uneasy hopscotch. I was stuck for 10 mins wondering how to jump over the water without breaking my leg on a slipper stone.
All this time we were trekking one side of the river without crossing it to the other side. Finally, we arrived at footstep of a scenic bridge. We had already been familiar with these types of suspension bridges in Nepal while trekking around Anapurna. Next to the bridge, there was a little teahouse for shepherds. We stopped by for tea and biscuits.
Tea in India is always served with milk. For us, two lost Poles tea and milk just do not go together especially if it is a flavoured tea like the one in India. Hence, we always ask for the tea to be made without milk at the beginning. It was a luxury to be drinking tea in this peaceful environment remembering that just few days ago did not see any teahouse on our way.
Tea in India is always served with milk. For us, two lost Poles tea and milk just do not go together especially if it is a flavoured tea like the one in India. Hence, we always ask for the tea to be made without milk at the beginning. It was a luxury to be drinking tea in this peaceful environment remembering that just few days ago did not see any teahouse on our way.
Next, we were advised by the teahouse owner to walk up. The elevation between Madkot Munsiyari and was about 1000m while distance about 20km. Until now, we were walking flat without ascending. Hence, we had still a long way to go.
We were continuously going up. It was tiring. We walked through a jungle but some parts were formed as small settlements. We saw a couple of woman doing some housework. We did stop and rest until we got out from the jungle. Once we reached a road, after about one hour of rushed work out, we started to admire beautiful views.
We were continuously going up. It was tiring. We walked through a jungle but some parts were formed as small settlements. We saw a couple of woman doing some housework. We did stop and rest until we got out from the jungle. Once we reached a road, after about one hour of rushed work out, we started to admire beautiful views.
Although were familiar with the road, the route seemed to be endless. We wanted to reach the same waterfalls where we had refreshed ourselves a week ago. In order to get there we had to do a small re-route. We undressed and jumped into a very cold water. It was a great reward though.
We reached Munsiyari before it got dark and stayed at Mr Pandeys lodge again. When we got there, we were desperate to buy some beers and celebrate. However, there was nowhere to buy alcohol. We have already learnt that in every village there is one alcohol shop, usually in a distant neighbourhood away from main street. Shop counters were always behind bars preventing you from easily seeing what is on sale.
We learnt that the only store to buy alcohol was closed because they sold out until further notice. Perhaps all the alcohol had gone during Happy Holi celebrations that finished a couple days ago. After making a few enquiries we were
We reached Munsiyari before it got dark and stayed at Mr Pandeys lodge again. When we got there, we were desperate to buy some beers and celebrate. However, there was nowhere to buy alcohol. We have already learnt that in every village there is one alcohol shop, usually in a distant neighbourhood away from main street. Shop counters were always behind bars preventing you from easily seeing what is on sale.
We learnt that the only store to buy alcohol was closed because they sold out until further notice. Perhaps all the alcohol had gone during Happy Holi celebrations that finished a couple days ago. After making a few enquiries we were
DAy 10: CLIMBING KHULIYA (3500M)
At Mr Pandey's hotel, we slept till late. We also treated ourselves with our first breakfast for over a week. Continental breakfast and coffee were skilfully prepared and served by a boy with a quiet voice, Pushkar. He was always ready to help and answer any questions and made us feel very comfortable. After our adventurous week, being back under Mr. Pandey's roof felt like luxury. In Musiyari we were surrounded by splendid views of Himalayas. We decided to stay here one more night. It was our rest day.
Despite getting up late, after a brief consultation with locals we set off to reach Khuliya Peak. We were told, it is normally recommended as a day trip from Munsiyari. It was about 11am. So we practically had only a half-day left. We started walking, relieved we did not have to carry our heavy backpacks. All we took was Tymek's emptied rucksack with a bottle of water and sun cream. Blast!
Instead of taking a jeep, we chose to walk through fields and hills, north side of Munsiyari, trying to avoid the road. After a 45 minute brisk walk, we arrived at the gate of Khuliya Park. A number of notice boards sunk in to the grounds made us realise we are in a protected environmental area. We were surrounded by beautiful views of Panchachuli peaks. The tallest one (6,900 metres) was emerging from the clouds proudly showing off his sharp edges.
Occasional spells of snow became a highlight of this trek. Seeing bigger layers of snow was equally exciting and challenging during our ascend. Half way through we passed a hotel, which was closed down. Clearly, we had arrived here before the season. Meantime, the weather started creeping up. Clouds filled up dark sky. We had to speed up before we get caught by rain.
Instead of taking a jeep, we chose to walk through fields and hills, north side of Munsiyari, trying to avoid the road. After a 45 minute brisk walk, we arrived at the gate of Khuliya Park. A number of notice boards sunk in to the grounds made us realise we are in a protected environmental area. We were surrounded by beautiful views of Panchachuli peaks. The tallest one (6,900 metres) was emerging from the clouds proudly showing off his sharp edges.
Occasional spells of snow became a highlight of this trek. Seeing bigger layers of snow was equally exciting and challenging during our ascend. Half way through we passed a hotel, which was closed down. Clearly, we had arrived here before the season. Meantime, the weather started creeping up. Clouds filled up dark sky. We had to speed up before we get caught by rain.
Within next half an hour we reached Khuliya peak. Overall, it took us only 2 hours to get there despite a 1000 metres elevation. We have been so well trained by Himalayas!
The skies started getting cloudy and it was cold and windy. We did not like overstaying on of Khuliya. After taking a few photos, we started to walk down. While descending, we were enjoying beautiful flora of Himalayas.
Unlike in Tatra Mountains in Poland, which were are more familiar with or even Alps, the vegetation exists here on much higher parts. There also many more layers of vegetation depending on heights. This is not just because Himalayas are three times higher than mountains in Europe. The geographical position of Himalayas in much warmer climate allows this happening.
Unlike in Tatra Mountains in Poland, which were are more familiar with or even Alps, the vegetation exists here on much higher parts. There also many more layers of vegetation depending on heights. This is not just because Himalayas are three times higher than mountains in Europe. The geographical position of Himalayas in much warmer climate allows this happening.
Within an hour and an half, we were back in Munsiyari. It was about 3pm and skies became very dramatic with the time. We went to the lower part of the town to get our favourite samosas, when iced rains started falling down from the sky. Despite we were only 300 metres away from our hotel we could not get back. The whole town got covered by white ice that looked like snow. We stood next to a shop finding a protection from the ice rain underneath of a metal roof.
After nearly two hours of waiting, we decided to run back to the hotel through unbearable icy rain. We were totally wet but we managed to get back. It was time to celebrate...with the local rum. We certainly kept ourselves warm that evening.
After nearly two hours of waiting, we decided to run back to the hotel through unbearable icy rain. We were totally wet but we managed to get back. It was time to celebrate...with the local rum. We certainly kept ourselves warm that evening.
day 11: On the road
Mr Pandey offered us to travel with his parents down to Kathgodam where our train back to Delhi was going from. Despite his advice to stay one more night and get the lift, we decided to begin our way back on our own. We had three more nights before our train journey. We knew we could not walk all the way to Kathgodam. Equally, we did not want to be squeezed in bus or taxi this 282km distance. We also knew it would cost us at least 4,000 rupees (50 pounds) to rent a private taxi. We followed my brother's idea to mix our journey with shared taxis, buses and walking.
There is only one bus service each in Musiyari. It leaves at 5am, goes to Thal and come back around 8pm. Shared taxis are the best transport in Musiyari and they have their own timetable. We managed to catch the 10am jeep to Thal. In the beginning, we were sitting comfortably at the back of the taxi. However, within a next stop more people joined and we were sitting squeezed like sardines. At one point, I had old babushka on my knees. People were coming in and going out.
Roads were curved and dangerous. Some passengers suffered from locomotion sickness and had to have the window wide open to throw up.
After a 2-hour drive, it was the time to get off. We were in Nachani, 14km away from Thal where we decided to walk to. Nachani was a small village. Its residents were not used to see tourists. After staying there for the tea, a couple of samosa, we put our rucksacks on our backs and started to march.
We used images of hotel maps I kept in my phone to navigate our route. Not many people walked in Uttarkhand between villages and it came as a surprise. We were the only ones walking.
Our first stop was at a paradise looking like river. After walking down to the canyon, we impatiently entered the water. It was a great relief. The outside temperature was much higher than in Munsiyari. We were in tropical climate.
The stream was moderately strong so the only way of staying still was to hold on to one of the sunken stones.
The best thing about this experience was that we had nowhere to rush. Still plenty of day left to reach Thal, where we were hoping to lodge for a night. After an hour of relaxation, we moved on. While walking along quite road, we were warned by a message painted on a round stone of unsafe sex. This looked to us as an effective use of natural resource to carry out a social campaign in a name of good health of the local residents.
The stream was moderately strong so the only way of staying still was to hold on to one of the sunken stones.
The best thing about this experience was that we had nowhere to rush. Still plenty of day left to reach Thal, where we were hoping to lodge for a night. After an hour of relaxation, we moved on. While walking along quite road, we were warned by a message painted on a round stone of unsafe sex. This looked to us as an effective use of natural resource to carry out a social campaign in a name of good health of the local residents.
We kept on walking for more two hours until we arrived at Thal. This high-altitude city (2772m) is not yet listed in Wikipedia. A metal bridge links city's two parts that are divided by Ramganga River. There is a temple built at edge of the river in a form of a tower. We were told that the temple was 800 years old.
We lodged in a hotel, which did not impress us with its cleanliness. We had a roommate in a form of 15cm long lizard. I was a little bit concerned but my brother explained, the lizard was there to hunt for cockroaches and other insects, which found accommodation in the same room as us.
We lodged in a hotel, which did not impress us with its cleanliness. We had a roommate in a form of 15cm long lizard. I was a little bit concerned but my brother explained, the lizard was there to hunt for cockroaches and other insects, which found accommodation in the same room as us.
DAY 12: Koteshwar Temple and Ganai
The plan was to reach Almora. It is the biggest town in this part of Himalayas and where we wanted to do some shopping before leaving India. We had two more days left.
With no breakfast, we got up and took a shared taxi from a busy junction in front of the bridge. The taxi was supposed to take us to Berinag. From there, we were going to catch another one to Almora. We were also hoping for some walking opportunities in between if the time allowed.
The first taxi we took was full of young guys. These local hipsters were loudly discussing various subjects while listening to punjabi pop music from their mobile handsets. The driver itself was very young too and was more focused on entertaining his passengers than driving. In fact, the ride was a little bit too fast with very sharp turnings. The whole situation appeared to us a little bit crazy, especially when the boys decided to stop their vehicle in the middle of a road. The place seemed to be out of our way. We could not work out whether we were waiting for other passengers or some cargo.
There was an old women standing outstanding who appeared to be holding us from driving to our destination. The youngsters were discussing with her some subjects. We kept asking them how much longer we were going to stay there. Despite their promises the wait became unbearable and we got off the jeep. We went up the roof to reach our backpacks and abandoned our travel companions. After a brisk walk, we reached the main road. At a curved turning, a few people were waiting for shared taxis. This indicated to us that we arrived at a bus stop. We let other passengers board first two jeeps that stopped there. In fact, there were frequent jeeps passing by, some full of people, other with single seats or some space left.
Squeezed in the back of the vehicle we were on the road speeding towards Berinag watching flying landscapes of houses, fields, villages and local ads painted on walls of stores and workshops.
With no breakfast, we got up and took a shared taxi from a busy junction in front of the bridge. The taxi was supposed to take us to Berinag. From there, we were going to catch another one to Almora. We were also hoping for some walking opportunities in between if the time allowed.
The first taxi we took was full of young guys. These local hipsters were loudly discussing various subjects while listening to punjabi pop music from their mobile handsets. The driver itself was very young too and was more focused on entertaining his passengers than driving. In fact, the ride was a little bit too fast with very sharp turnings. The whole situation appeared to us a little bit crazy, especially when the boys decided to stop their vehicle in the middle of a road. The place seemed to be out of our way. We could not work out whether we were waiting for other passengers or some cargo.
There was an old women standing outstanding who appeared to be holding us from driving to our destination. The youngsters were discussing with her some subjects. We kept asking them how much longer we were going to stay there. Despite their promises the wait became unbearable and we got off the jeep. We went up the roof to reach our backpacks and abandoned our travel companions. After a brisk walk, we reached the main road. At a curved turning, a few people were waiting for shared taxis. This indicated to us that we arrived at a bus stop. We let other passengers board first two jeeps that stopped there. In fact, there were frequent jeeps passing by, some full of people, other with single seats or some space left.
Squeezed in the back of the vehicle we were on the road speeding towards Berinag watching flying landscapes of houses, fields, villages and local ads painted on walls of stores and workshops.
Berinag appeared to be a big village. According to our hotel map from here there was a trail leading to Koteshwar Cave Temple, which appealed to us as an interesting addition to our trek. We asked people around but none of them new about the trial. Instead, we were directed to Raiagar.
After a 7 mile march we arrived at Raiagar, a small village with an inviting restaurant. It was very quiet inside. We were the only guests. We ordered vegetarian Chinese stir fried noodles. Tymek had two portions. Noodles were very tasty and different from traditional dal bhat that we were used to. After a lunch break we left Raiagar for Koteshwar Temple.
After a short walk along a road we entered leafy woodlot. We were on the hill and had to descent to reach our destination. The surroundings look like a large urban park with well-defined walking paths. On our way we met a group of school children on a school trip. They welcomed us with a big smile. They were very excited to see us. My brother who is nearly two metres tall drew their attention most. This brought back memories when a Delhi based stewardess on our BA flight from London to Delhi told him: You are going to be very popular in India. We don't have such tall people like you.
Throughout my trip I chose did my best not take photos of people without asking for their permission. I thought that way I demonstrate my respect towards them. On this occasion, I broke my rule and shot two photos of the school children as a surprise.
After a 7 mile march we arrived at Raiagar, a small village with an inviting restaurant. It was very quiet inside. We were the only guests. We ordered vegetarian Chinese stir fried noodles. Tymek had two portions. Noodles were very tasty and different from traditional dal bhat that we were used to. After a lunch break we left Raiagar for Koteshwar Temple.
After a short walk along a road we entered leafy woodlot. We were on the hill and had to descent to reach our destination. The surroundings look like a large urban park with well-defined walking paths. On our way we met a group of school children on a school trip. They welcomed us with a big smile. They were very excited to see us. My brother who is nearly two metres tall drew their attention most. This brought back memories when a Delhi based stewardess on our BA flight from London to Delhi told him: You are going to be very popular in India. We don't have such tall people like you.
Throughout my trip I chose did my best not take photos of people without asking for their permission. I thought that way I demonstrate my respect towards them. On this occasion, I broke my rule and shot two photos of the school children as a surprise.
After leaving children behind we finally arrived at the gate that was leading to the Koteshwar Temple. We were met by a temple assistant who offered to take us through the Temple. We had to take our boots and socks off before entering the sanctuary, which was made inside a cave. It was a small cave with tight corridors, which we had to skilfully get through so we were not get stuck. Walking berefoot on wet and chilled stones was a nice experience. In the middle of the cave we were shown a main room where the worships happen. The temple assistant eagerly offered to take photos of us. And that is how we ended up looking so oddly and cofused in the middle of a house of god in India.
On our way out, we made a small donation and said goodbye to the Temple assistant. It was about 3pm and we knew there was not a lot of time left to get back to Almora. On arrival back in Raiagar after a rushed walk from the Temple, we approached main plaza of the village. It was a pleasant stone made and elevated sitting area with a few benches. There were a lot of people at that time with many shared jeeps arriving and departing packed with passengers. It was a rush hour!
Everyone was nice to us. Some youths who spoke good English helped us enquire about a possibility to get to Almora. However, we were told the last transport to Almora left over an hour ago. The locals also said there was a hotel in the town where we could lodge. But we wanted to continue as far as we could that day so we got into a packed jeep. The next stop for us was Ganai, a village situated 18km away from Raiagar.
Everyone was nice to us. Some youths who spoke good English helped us enquire about a possibility to get to Almora. However, we were told the last transport to Almora left over an hour ago. The locals also said there was a hotel in the town where we could lodge. But we wanted to continue as far as we could that day so we got into a packed jeep. The next stop for us was Ganai, a village situated 18km away from Raiagar.
On arrival, we were met by few locals who were very impressed by our visit. There was still daylight but clouds were pretty black making the whole setting dark and fresh at the same time. It was a good feeling. We detected a nice atmosphere. We were going to enjoy our short overnight stay in Ganai.
After a few enquiries we were directed to the only hotel in town which was about 10 minutes walk from the bus stop along Ganai's main road. There were a lot of green and tall plants that suggested that vegetation here was typically tropical. It reminded me of Tatopani, a place in Nepal I visited a year before.
On a way to the hotel it started to rain. When we arrived we were greeted by an owner who did not speak any English. He quickly sent a boy for a neighbour who appeared to be a guy in his early twenties. He was very excited to meet us. We were obviously the only lodgers in this remote hotel which appeared to be a nice stay for a night.
Once we were shown our room with two beds and TV as well as an interesting view for a dense green jungle we moved on to see the town before it got dark.
Our first stop was a local hairdresser. We quickly became his favourite customers. My hair, particularly my facial has grown a lot since the beginning of the trip. I loved the idea that I could have a clean shave done in this tiny place with a view for a road. After completing the treatment, the barber also offered a head message, which he then performed on my brother too. The massage consisted of a set of quick and strong hand movements on our heads and loud clapping in the air. It was very skilful massage and I very much enjoyed receiving it and watching it in this chilly workshop.
After a few enquiries we were directed to the only hotel in town which was about 10 minutes walk from the bus stop along Ganai's main road. There were a lot of green and tall plants that suggested that vegetation here was typically tropical. It reminded me of Tatopani, a place in Nepal I visited a year before.
On a way to the hotel it started to rain. When we arrived we were greeted by an owner who did not speak any English. He quickly sent a boy for a neighbour who appeared to be a guy in his early twenties. He was very excited to meet us. We were obviously the only lodgers in this remote hotel which appeared to be a nice stay for a night.
Once we were shown our room with two beds and TV as well as an interesting view for a dense green jungle we moved on to see the town before it got dark.
Our first stop was a local hairdresser. We quickly became his favourite customers. My hair, particularly my facial has grown a lot since the beginning of the trip. I loved the idea that I could have a clean shave done in this tiny place with a view for a road. After completing the treatment, the barber also offered a head message, which he then performed on my brother too. The massage consisted of a set of quick and strong hand movements on our heads and loud clapping in the air. It was very skilful massage and I very much enjoyed receiving it and watching it in this chilly workshop.
While spending our time at the barber's I met a tailor whose shop was next door. He invited me inside and asked a lot of questions about where I come from what I do. He was very proud tailor who asked me to take a photo of him and even treated me with a couple oranges. This man appeared to be genuinely intrigued by our trip and me. He was interested in knowing what there is in the outside world, pointing out to the fact that his sun emigrated to the Far East for work.
Our encounter in the town started and finished in this place. As it got dark we went back to our lodge. We were cleaned and relaxed but also hungry. When we arrived the food we had earlier pre-ordered was under preparation.
Before the dinner was ready Ganesh with a lot of enthusiasm invited me for a bike trip around village. I was obviously the passenger. It was dark and the ride was pretty fast and exciting. There was no need for a helmet. We crossed metal bridge in the centre of the village, stopped by a local shops and said hello to few locals. Everyone was very nice in the village. When arrived back to the hotel we were served food. I also had a beer and then we just went to sleep.
The time was flying and we only had one day left before our train to Delhi that was pre-booked for us with a help of Dominika and Deepak back in London. There was no more time for walking. Our 'official' part of the trekking was over on Day 12.
Our encounter in the town started and finished in this place. As it got dark we went back to our lodge. We were cleaned and relaxed but also hungry. When we arrived the food we had earlier pre-ordered was under preparation.
Before the dinner was ready Ganesh with a lot of enthusiasm invited me for a bike trip around village. I was obviously the passenger. It was dark and the ride was pretty fast and exciting. There was no need for a helmet. We crossed metal bridge in the centre of the village, stopped by a local shops and said hello to few locals. Everyone was very nice in the village. When arrived back to the hotel we were served food. I also had a beer and then we just went to sleep.
The time was flying and we only had one day left before our train to Delhi that was pre-booked for us with a help of Dominika and Deepak back in London. There was no more time for walking. Our 'official' part of the trekking was over on Day 12.
DAY 13: Kathgodam by public transport
We woke up at 7am. Without any breakfast we said good bye to our hosts and marched towards the town. We did not have walk far though. The bus was waiting not too far at what it seemed to be a bus stop but not an official bus station where we arrived the day before. It was a schedule bus service originated somewhere else which had its schedule rest stop at Ganai. Before 8am departure, I managed to buy a couple of packets of biscuits and bottle of water and we were ready to go. It was a chilled morning and I was very excited about our public transport journey ahead of us. Less impressed was my brother, Tymek who would have liked more walking.
Compared with some other bus journeys I made in Nepal a year before, this one was not too bad. The bus was not crowded at all, although more passengers joined us later. After 3 hours we arrived in Almora. It was a perfect time spent in a bus. In Almora we had a few hours before heading to Kathgodam. There are plenty of buses going that direction. The plan was not to get to Kathgodam too late.
We wanted to do some shopping, possibly buy some souvenirs at the Almora market. But truly apart from fake clothing and fresh fruit, there was not much to choose from. There were a lot of stands but all had very similar stuff. One shop which pulled our attention was a small craft workshop that was making blankets and hats of yak's wool. We had momo for lunch, nepalese steemed dumplings with vegetarian stuffing, a dish which we so enjoyed when we were trekking around Anapurna a year before.
Compared with some other bus journeys I made in Nepal a year before, this one was not too bad. The bus was not crowded at all, although more passengers joined us later. After 3 hours we arrived in Almora. It was a perfect time spent in a bus. In Almora we had a few hours before heading to Kathgodam. There are plenty of buses going that direction. The plan was not to get to Kathgodam too late.
We wanted to do some shopping, possibly buy some souvenirs at the Almora market. But truly apart from fake clothing and fresh fruit, there was not much to choose from. There were a lot of stands but all had very similar stuff. One shop which pulled our attention was a small craft workshop that was making blankets and hats of yak's wool. We had momo for lunch, nepalese steemed dumplings with vegetarian stuffing, a dish which we so enjoyed when we were trekking around Anapurna a year before.
We left Almora at 5pm on a bus leaving from one of the bus stations. In Almora, there are two bus stations on both sides of the hill while the market is on top of the hill. The whole town is pretty strange because it is built in the middle of a mountain. There are spectacularl views of Almora when either entering or leaving the town from any direction.
The bus we took to Kathgodam was a very busy service. We spent over 3 hours on that bus which shook us tremendously as were descending from the mountains. Kathgodam's elevation is only 500 metres while Almora is located at 1,600 metres above sea level.
When we arrived to Kathgodam, we were met with a buzz of the city, noise of tuk-tuks and on street poverty. The city of Kathgodam is a big and important place, mainly due its railway. Kathgodam with its name meaning a timber depot, as Wikipedia advises us is he last station on its Indian Railways line; from this point, one must travel by automobile...
There are few hotels in Kathgodam. We walked along its main road to look for one. We stepped in to Relax Inn. The room cost us 1,500 rupees (15 pounds) which appeared to be a good price for a comfortable room with a proper shower for the first time since we came down from the mountains.
The bus we took to Kathgodam was a very busy service. We spent over 3 hours on that bus which shook us tremendously as were descending from the mountains. Kathgodam's elevation is only 500 metres while Almora is located at 1,600 metres above sea level.
When we arrived to Kathgodam, we were met with a buzz of the city, noise of tuk-tuks and on street poverty. The city of Kathgodam is a big and important place, mainly due its railway. Kathgodam with its name meaning a timber depot, as Wikipedia advises us is he last station on its Indian Railways line; from this point, one must travel by automobile...
There are few hotels in Kathgodam. We walked along its main road to look for one. We stepped in to Relax Inn. The room cost us 1,500 rupees (15 pounds) which appeared to be a good price for a comfortable room with a proper shower for the first time since we came down from the mountains.
The moment we arrived to the hotel, we started to get ready for our train journey. I washed my shirt and left drying outside. I used two oranges to press the shirt against the porch outside our room to protect from the wind. These were the same oranges that I received from the tailor in Ganai the day before. I wanted to eat them after using them as a drying tool. These were not Spanish looking like oranges but rather small and green. To my amazement within a minute, both oranges were gone. All I saw was a big monkey skilfully taking off the skin of my oranges. The monkey jumped back onto the roof of our hotel as soon as it saw me. I was left with no oranges, neither cool pictures of the monkey. Through the whole trip I saw quite few monkeys. None of them wanted to be photographed.
As part of exciting preparation for our railway trip, my brother took his shirt to a near-by stand specialising in ironing. It was already dark but the service outlet was still open where a man working under bright light was masterly pressing a huge iron on my brother's shirt.
As part of exciting preparation for our railway trip, my brother took his shirt to a near-by stand specialising in ironing. It was already dark but the service outlet was still open where a man working under bright light was masterly pressing a huge iron on my brother's shirt.
day 14: delhi
Our hotel was only 5 minutes away from the station. Next morning we headed to the station to ensure we could find our seats on the train easily. Uttaranchal Sampark Kranti Express starts in Kathgodam so it is a good idea to allow some time to board the train, buy a nice coffee at the station and relax.
The train left on time at 8:50 in the morning to stop soon after at Haldwani where it picked up a few more passengers. Certainly, throughout our journey, the train was not loosing any passengers. Instead, the number of passengers was growing each station we stopped.
While we were sitting comfortably I our first class seats, people in the second and third class were standing in crowded carriages.
Unlike Shatabdi Express which took us to Kathgodam two weeks ago, for the food served on the train we had to pay. It was a nice morning meal with a tea.
It was sad we were leaving Kathgodam and first of all Himalayas. The last views of the mountains were gradually left behind us, as we were moving towards the capital of India.
So here, we were at 15:20 at the Old Delhi station. It was my second time in Delhi while for my brother it was the first encounter with this city massive city in the daylight. Nevertheless, the city has had the same impact on both of us on arrival after spending nearly two weeks in low populated and non-polluted Himalayas. The amount of people and noise, especially around the station was obviously overwhelming for us.
So here, we were at 15:20 at the Old Delhi station. It was my second time in Delhi while for my brother it was the first encounter with this city massive city in the daylight. Nevertheless, the city has had the same impact on both of us on arrival after spending nearly two weeks in low populated and non-polluted Himalayas. The amount of people and noise, especially around the station was obviously overwhelming for us.
Old Delhi Station
After a quick search at a near-by market and a bank visit where we exchanges our last rupees back to pounds we were on our way on the impressive underground system to Akshardham, a famous Hindu temple complex.
Akshardham was recommended to us by Deepak, friend of Dominika who suggested us this place to visit if we were planning a short stay in Delhi. In fact, we only had this one afternoon in Delhi before heading to the airport at night. That is why we gave up an idea to see Red Fort in the centre of Delhi, which would be an obvious tourist attraction and went to Indraprastha metro railway station.
Akshardham was recommended to us by Deepak, friend of Dominika who suggested us this place to visit if we were planning a short stay in Delhi. In fact, we only had this one afternoon in Delhi before heading to the airport at night. That is why we gave up an idea to see Red Fort in the centre of Delhi, which would be an obvious tourist attraction and went to Indraprastha metro railway station.
From there, we walked along a busy highway after consulting a few people. We stopped for street samosas and within minutes the view of what we later found was the world's largest Hindu temple appeared in front of us.
Before entering the Temple we had to go through a rigid security scan of our bags and then leave our bags as well cameras in a cloakroom. We were told no photos were allowed. Even our mobile phones had to be kept away from us. It was like entering a music festival. Once we managed to get through that, inside the complex we were faced with the huge temple and beautiful temple. The temple and its supporting building skillfully decorated with sculptures and ornaments with motives that were meant representing Hindu gods.
It was a big complex with a lot of people, particularly families walking around. To enter some temples we had to take our boots off and walk barefoot. There were also a canteens, bookstore, education centre and souvenir shop. In some sort of way, this establishment reminded of an amusement park.
We later found that the whole complex was not very old. Its construction finished in 2005. It was a great choice though for our last day in India. After our long trek, it was nice to relax and admire the biggest Hindu temple.
The highlight of our stay there was Yagnapurush Kund, India's largest step well, which is a type of pond with descending set of steps. At night, this open-air building is used for a musical fountain. We had this opportunity to see this performance where water sculptures and music were presenting a circle of life.
Before entering the Temple we had to go through a rigid security scan of our bags and then leave our bags as well cameras in a cloakroom. We were told no photos were allowed. Even our mobile phones had to be kept away from us. It was like entering a music festival. Once we managed to get through that, inside the complex we were faced with the huge temple and beautiful temple. The temple and its supporting building skillfully decorated with sculptures and ornaments with motives that were meant representing Hindu gods.
It was a big complex with a lot of people, particularly families walking around. To enter some temples we had to take our boots off and walk barefoot. There were also a canteens, bookstore, education centre and souvenir shop. In some sort of way, this establishment reminded of an amusement park.
We later found that the whole complex was not very old. Its construction finished in 2005. It was a great choice though for our last day in India. After our long trek, it was nice to relax and admire the biggest Hindu temple.
The highlight of our stay there was Yagnapurush Kund, India's largest step well, which is a type of pond with descending set of steps. At night, this open-air building is used for a musical fountain. We had this opportunity to see this performance where water sculptures and music were presenting a circle of life.
We left Akshardham with as soon as the performance ended. While heading back to the centre of Delhi on a posh underground system, on arrival of metro train, my brother almost entered ladies only carriage. Gladly, thanks to my alarm, he did not commit any faux pas we travelled to one of the shopping malls in Delhi where we managed to buy a couple of beers and waited until it was the time for us to head towards the airport and catch our early morning our flight back to London.
It was sad to leave India, especially the views of Himalays. Thanks to numerous pictures taken from the trip I could retrieve most of our events that happened during our journey. I wanted to share these with you because when I searched our route on internet, there was a very little information available about places we went to and treks we did. This is when the idea of the blog was born.
To be continued soon ... perhaps somewhere else in the world.
Thank you very much for reading this blog. If you liked it, please share this with your friends. Kuba
It was sad to leave India, especially the views of Himalays. Thanks to numerous pictures taken from the trip I could retrieve most of our events that happened during our journey. I wanted to share these with you because when I searched our route on internet, there was a very little information available about places we went to and treks we did. This is when the idea of the blog was born.
To be continued soon ... perhaps somewhere else in the world.
Thank you very much for reading this blog. If you liked it, please share this with your friends. Kuba






































